Choosing the right suit collar can significantly impact the overall aesthetic and formality of an outfit. Two of the most common and distinct collar styles encountered are the lapel collar and the revere collar. Understanding their nuances is key to making informed sartorial decisions.
These collars, while both serving the function of framing the neckline and adding structure to a garment, possess unique design elements that dictate their suitability for different occasions and personal styles. This exploration will delve into the specifics of each, highlighting their origins, characteristics, and how to best wear them.
The Lapel Collar: A Staple of Traditional Tailoring
The term “lapel collar” often refers to the broader category of collars that fold back from the front of a jacket, creating a notched or peaked effect. It’s a design deeply rooted in the history of men’s suiting and formal wear.
These are the collars you’ll most commonly find on business suits, blazers, and dinner jackets. The lapel itself is the section of cloth that turns back from the gorge (the point where the collar meets the lapel) to form a facing on the front of the jacket.
Lapels are characterized by their distinct shapes and widths, each conveying a different message. The most prevalent types are the notch lapel, the peak lapel, and the shawl lapel. Each variation carries its own history and stylistic implications.
The Notch Lapel: Versatility Personified
The notch lapel is arguably the most ubiquitous and versatile lapel style in modern menswear. Its defining feature is the V-shaped “notch” created where the lapel meets the collar. This design is achieved by cutting the two pieces of the lapel separately and then joining them at an angle.
This style originated from the practice of men unbuttoning their frock coats for more comfort, revealing the chest. It became a standard feature on lounge suits and has remained a go-to for everyday business attire due to its approachable and less formal feel compared to peak lapels.
A notch lapel is ideal for a wide range of occasions, from daily office wear and business meetings to semi-formal events like weddings or cocktail parties when worn with a well-chosen suit or blazer. It’s the safe, stylish choice for almost any situation.
The width of a notch lapel can vary, significantly influencing the jacket’s overall look. Narrower lapels, often seen on slimmer, more contemporary suits, tend to create a sleeker, more youthful silhouette. They can elongate the torso and draw the eye upwards.
Conversely, wider notch lapels, typically around 3 to 3.5 inches, exude a more traditional and authoritative presence. These wider styles are often associated with classic tailoring and can add a sense of gravitas to the wearer. The choice of width should complement the wearer’s body type and the suit’s overall design.
When pairing a notch lapel jacket with a tie, consider the tie’s width. A medium-width tie generally pairs best with a medium-width notch lapel, maintaining visual harmony. Very slim ties can sometimes look disproportionate with wider lapels, and vice-versa, though this is a stylistic guideline rather than a strict rule.
The Peak Lapel: Elegance and Formality
The peak lapel, also known as a pointed lapel, is characterized by its upward-pointing shape, where the lapel extends towards the shoulder, creating a more dramatic and formal silhouette. Unlike the notch lapel, both the collar and the lapel are cut from a single piece of fabric, giving it a continuous, flowing line.
Historically, peak lapels were considered the most formal type of lapel, often seen on morning coats and ceremonial attire. Their inherent elegance and assertive style have seen a resurgence in popularity for modern suits and double-breasted jackets.
Peak lapels lend themselves exceptionally well to formal events such as black-tie occasions, weddings, and important business functions. They convey a sense of confidence and sophistication, making a bolder statement than the more understated notch lapel.
A key advantage of peak lapels is their ability to visually broaden the shoulders and create a more imposing, V-shaped torso. This flattering effect makes them an excellent choice for men who wish to enhance their frame or achieve a more commanding presence.
Peak lapels are particularly striking on double-breasted suits. The inherent formality of the double-breasted cut is amplified by the assertive lines of the peak lapel, creating a powerful and classic ensemble. This combination is a timeless choice for those who appreciate sartorial tradition.
When considering peak lapels for a single-breasted jacket, they offer a sophisticated alternative to the notch lapel. They elevate the garment beyond standard business wear, making it suitable for occasions demanding a higher level of dress. This style adds a touch of flair without sacrificing professionalism.
The Shawl Lapel: The Pinnacle of Black Tie
The shawl lapel, also known as a rounded lapel, is a seamless, curved collar that flows smoothly from the neck down the front of the jacket. It lacks any distinct notch or peak, presenting a continuous, unbroken line. This design is exclusively found on formal wear, most notably the tuxedo.
Originating in the mid-19th century as a less formal alternative to the tailcoat for evening wear, the shawl collar quickly became synonymous with sophistication and black-tie events. It is typically made from satin or grosgrain, providing a subtle contrast to the jacket’s main fabric.
The shawl lapel is the definitive choice for formal evening occasions like black-tie weddings, galas, and formal dinners. Its inherent elegance and singular design make it instantly recognizable as attire for the most distinguished events. It requires a specific level of formality in the rest of the ensemble.
Due to its smooth, rounded shape, the shawl lapel does not accommodate a tie in the traditional sense. Instead, it is meant to be worn with a bow tie, completing the quintessential black-tie look. This pairing is non-negotiable for achieving the correct aesthetic.
This lapel style is generally reserved for tuxedos and dinner jackets. Attempting to incorporate it into a standard business suit would be a sartorial misstep, as its formality is too pronounced for such settings. It is a style that demands specific context.
The visual effect of a shawl lapel is one of refined simplicity and understated luxury. It draws attention to the wearer’s face and neck area, creating a clean and polished appearance that is both timeless and elegant. It offers a departure from the sharper lines of other lapels.
The Revere Collar: A Distinctly Different Approach
The revere collar, often associated with military uniforms and casual shirts, presents a fundamentally different construction and aesthetic compared to traditional suit lapels. Its defining characteristic is that it is typically a one-piece collar that stands up around the neck and then folds over, forming a distinct edge.
Unlike suit lapels, which are integral to the jacket’s front, the revere collar is more akin to a shirt collar that has been adapted for outerwear. This distinction in origin and function leads to significant differences in how and where each is worn.
The most common modern manifestation of a revere collar is found on the Harrington jacket, a lightweight, casual outerwear piece. It can also be seen on certain types of military-inspired jackets and some vintage workwear.
The Harrington Jacket Collar: Casual Chic
The collar on a Harrington jacket is a prime example of the revere style. It typically features a stand-up collar that can be buttoned at the neck, offering protection from the elements. When unbuttoned, the collar folds over to create a distinct, often slightly curved, edge.
This collar style is inherently casual, designed for everyday wear and providing a relaxed yet put-together look. It’s a practical choice for transitional weather, offering a blend of style and utility.
Harrington jacket collars are rarely, if ever, seen on formal attire. Their association with casual sportswear and iconic figures like Steve McQueen solidifies their place in the realm of relaxed fashion. They are designed for ease and comfort.
The versatility of the Harrington jacket, and by extension its revere collar, lies in its ability to be dressed up or down slightly. While firmly in the casual category, it can be paired with jeans and a t-shirt for a laid-back vibe or with chinos and a button-down shirt for a slightly more polished, yet still casual, ensemble.
Military and Workwear Influences
The revere collar’s lineage can be traced back to early military and workwear garments. These designs prioritized functionality and durability, with collars that could be easily adjusted or secured.
Many vintage military jackets and some contemporary workwear pieces incorporate a revere collar. This often signifies a robust, utilitarian aesthetic, prioritizing practicality over formal refinement.
The adoption of the revere collar in these contexts highlights its inherent hardiness. It’s a design that stands up to wear and tear, making it suitable for demanding environments.
These collars often feature a simple, unadorned construction, emphasizing their functional purpose. They are designed to protect the wearer without adding unnecessary complexity or embellishment.
Key Distinctions and Practical Applications
The fundamental difference between a lapel collar and a revere collar lies in their construction and intended context. Lapels are an integral part of the jacket’s front facing, designed to frame the chest and create a specific silhouette, while revere collars are typically a more self-contained unit, often resembling an extended shirt collar.
Lapel collars, particularly notch and peak styles, are designed to be worn with shirts and ties (or bow ties for shawl lapels). They are a core component of suits, blazers, and formal jackets, dictating the formality of the garment. The choice of lapel significantly influences the overall impression of the outfit, from professional to celebratory.
Revere collars, on the other hand, are primarily found on casual outerwear like Harrington jackets or on specific military-inspired garments. They are generally worn without ties and are intended for more relaxed settings. Their function is often more about practical protection from the elements than about formal sartorial expression.
Consider the occasion when choosing between garments featuring these collar types. A business meeting or a formal wedding demands the structure and elegance of a lapel collar, specifically a notch or peak lapel. A casual weekend outing or a light outdoor activity is better suited to the relaxed practicality of a revere collar on a jacket like a Harrington.
The materials and embellishments also tend to differ. Lapels on suits are often made from the same fabric as the jacket, sometimes with contrasting satin or grosgrain for formal wear. Revere collars on casual jackets are usually made from the jacket’s main fabric and may feature simple buttons or snaps for closure.
The visual impact is another crucial differentiator. Lapels create a strong vertical line that draws the eye down the front of the body, influencing perceived proportions. Revere collars, particularly when buttoned, tend to create a more compact, rounded neckline, offering a different kind of framing.
When selecting a suit or jacket, understanding the specific collar type is paramount. A notch lapel offers broad applicability for business and semi-formal events. A peak lapel elevates formality and adds a touch of boldness, ideal for more significant occasions or for making a statement. The shawl lapel is exclusively for the most formal evening wear.
Conversely, a revere collar signifies a move away from formality. It’s about comfort, practicality, and a relaxed style. Opting for a revere-collared jacket means embracing a more casual aesthetic, suitable for everyday wear or specific leisure activities.
The way each collar interacts with other wardrobe elements also varies. Lapels are designed to complement shirts, ties, and pocket squares, forming a cohesive unit within a layered outfit. Revere collars are typically part of a more streamlined casual look, often paired with t-shirts, sweaters, or casual shirts where the collar of the shirt might be visible underneath.
Ultimately, the choice between a lapel and a revere collar comes down to the desired level of formality and the specific context. Both have their place in a well-rounded wardrobe, but they serve entirely different sartorial purposes.
Mastering these distinctions allows for more confident and appropriate dressing. It’s about understanding the language of clothing and using it to communicate effectively through personal style.